![]() Other times, you'll just know the area that needs to be paved - feel free to provide any of these values. Sometimes, you'll know how many slabs you need. To learn more about cubic yards, visit our cubic yard calculator. As construction elements are usually measured in feet, our calculator converts the volume into cubic yards - in our example, 4 cu yd (108 cubic feet). Pre-mixed concrete is usually sold by the cubic yard, and this unit is used by default. So let's say we have 4 concrete elements, each 3 feet long, 3 feet wide, and 3 feet high. You can change them to any other unit by simply unlocking the field (the padlock button). Now you know how many bags you truly need.Īll dimensions are given in feet by default. Provide the size of the bag so we can find out how much concrete is produced per bag.įinally, you can provide the waste ratio - how much you think you will lose via spillages, defective elements, and other unfortunate events. Given the volume we just calculated and the concrete's density (again, you'll find this info on the bag we provided a common value, but it varies), you can calculate the weight of all your elements. Provide the dimensions (length, width, and height) and quantity of your concrete slabs or an area that you want to pave.ĭetermine the weight of all of those elements - this is how bagged concrete is sold they tell you how much the concrete from the bag will weigh (for example, you'll get 60 pounds of concrete out of one bag). Once the mortar joints have become “thumbprint” hard, use a jointing tool to smooth the fresh joints and remove any excess mortar.First, you need to estimate the volume of concrete that you need. Using a mason’s line as a guide for the remaining block, continue building the wall until it is complete. To set the next course of block, apply a one-inch thick mortar bed along top of the first course.Īt the end of the wall, set an “8x8x8” half block into the mortar bed with the smooth side facing out. Repeat steps 6 and 7, adjusting the blocks to be flush and level continue this process until the first course is completed. Using the same process, set the opposite corner block. The mortar should be workable but firm enough to support the weight of the block.īutter the inside end of the first block and then press the block into the mortar bed to create a 3/8 inch mortar joint. Furrow the mortar bed using the tip of the trowel to create a “v” to help distribute the mortar evenly. The proper consistency is achieved when the wet mortar will “hang” on a trowelĭampen the footing surface with water and place a one-inch bed of mortar on the footing. ![]() TIP: when preparing to place a trowel full of mortar, gently “snap” the trowel downward to removeĪny excess mortar. Snap a chalk line on each side of the block wall as a reference line. Lay out the block, making sure to leave a 3/8 inch gap between the blocks to allow for the vertical mortar joints (i.e., a typical 8x8x16 block is actually 15-5/8 inches long and 7-5/8 inches high to accommodate the mortar joint). Rebar should be placed in every other masonry core to provide structural support.įor masonry cores over 4 inches wide, QUIKRETE Core Fill Grout – Coarse should be poured around the rebar for masonry cores under 4 inches wide, QUIKRETE Core Fill Grout-Fine should be used. NOTE: it is important to check local building codes for construction requirements in your area.įor load-bearing walls, tie rods should be set a minimum of 6 inches into the concrete footing before it is set. Footings should be a minimum of twice the width of the concrete block (i.e., a typical 8x8x16 block would require a 16-inch wide footing) and extend below the frost line. When working with cement-based products, always wear eye protection and waterproof gloves.Įnsure a solid footing.
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